Sunday, March 4, 2012

Flourgirls

Nashville Restaurants and Food
Flourgirls
201 S. Main Street
Goodlettsville
615-851-7437
www.flourgirlsonmainstreet.com

Pastry folks are known as being sticklers for detail. It’s perhaps one reason that bakeries often do well when they cross over to a wider restaurant menu. Trish Golter has spent much of her life in cooking and pastry creation. She worked at Mad Platter for 11 years. Her latest passion is her own bakery and restaurant in Goodlettsville called Flourgirls. You can watch as folks come in to pick-up cakes for all occasions. One day we see an artfully finished purple Barbie design for a seven year-old’s birthday and the serious consideration by both staff member and mom to make sure Barbie’s head is on straight. The sweet baked goods are a highlight of Flourgirls, but don’t let the bakery business make you lose sight of the restaurant offerings. They have an excellent line-up of sandwiches, salads and soups, making Flourgirls one of our favorite café lunches in the Nashville area.

Ginger-carrot bisque is a thick, hearty soup with a slightly sweet finish. The Flourgirls salad features lightly grilled portabellas, sliced thin and combined with feta, spiced-sugar pecans and dried cranberries over fresh greens. The sweet basil vinaigrette is the perfect accompaniment. It’s interesting that they don’t bake their own bread for the sandwiches. But it makes sense. The quality bread fits the bill and it leaves them plenty of time to focus on the sandwich creation. The grilled Panini’s are skillfully pressed. The Cuban is a damn fine rendition with crispy crust, flavorful pork and ham and just the right amount of Swiss cheese. A lightly dressed salad with feta comes on the side. A muffaletta also does tradition proud with a fresh-tasting house-made tapenade that trends light and savory over vinegary and oily. A delicate potato soup is mild and satisfying and paired with a doughy and herby rosemary foccacia for dipping.

You can’t leave without sampling the baked goods. They specialize in the sweet side of things, with a small number of cookies, brownies, and cupcakes that seem to change each time we visit. It’s not a huge operation and so the selection is limited. The treats are made with love. Witness the chocolate espresso torte, presented with a couple of dollops of house-made whipped cream. It’s rich, dense and with a lovely flavor for a wonderful finish to one meal. For another lunch we experience a unique and tasty tahini and almond shortbread.

Veggie Eater: The menu seems to make great effort at ensuring veggie options. The daily soup selection is a rotating affair, based on whatever is locally available and seasonal. Again, they have a veggie option. The first time out, I opted to pair a bowl of the three bean chili with the tapenade plate. The chili is a chunky and thick creation with corn, carrots, and peppers providing company to the beans. It was simply seasoned, allowing the veggies to take center stage. The tapenade is zippy, thanks to the olives (green and black), capers, and roasted red peppers. The folks at Flourgirls were kind enough to throw in a complimentary dollop of the homemade hummus. Again, the hummus is simply seasoned and is the perfect mate to the tapenade. Carrots, crackers, and toasted pitas served as the scooping vehicles. On the second visit, I just had to try the pimento cheese. I have strong feelings about what constitutes excellent pimento cheese; none of the Miracle whip, slightly sweet, mousse-like textured stuff will do. I opted to have the Flourgirls version on a croissant and was thrilled with the result. This is a coarsely mixed spread with a wonderful tangy finish. The pimento cheese is generously heaped on your bread of choice and coupled with a salad. I was left with a half-sandwich for another day’s lunch (can’t wait). We received a lesson on the history of the building during one of our visits. Apparently, the building was the original fire house in Goodlettsville and was later re-purposed into a long-standing dry cleaning business. The building still has many 40’s retro touches (check out the front windows). There is music wafting from the kitchen with staff singing along. Regular customers engage in serious discussions with staff about what additional items should be taken home (a whole cake) after the meal has been finished. The staff makes a big point to greet everyone and display obvious pride in their products. Our waitress was concerned that we did not like the carrot bisque (it was simply too hot and needed time to cool) and also offered to comp our dessert because she was apologetic about the wait to get our food (maybe 15 minutes max). We assured her that the soup was delightful and that we did in fact plan to get dessert, but would happily pay for it given the fact that our wait was not at all unreasonable. This venture has been open for three years and it seems almost criminal that it’s taken us this long to wander down the hill to take advantage of the menu.

Meat Eater: The next visit will have to include the vegetarian lasagna. They serve coffee and bakery goods for a late breakfast (they don't up until 10am) and do take-out for dinner pick-up until 6pm on weekdays. It’s a simple dining room, very much in a down-home country style. Original photography and artwork lines the walls. Located just across the street from the Goodlettsville City Hall it is well-situated just down the street from the Antique stores on Main Street. We think this gem needs wider recognition.

Flourgirls Cafe on Urbanspoon

Sunday, February 26, 2012

The Jam Coffee House

Nashville Restaurants and Food
The Jam Coffee House
1210 Wedgewood Avenue
Nashville
615-823-3292
Facebook page

The Newton family has transformed this small storefront in a tiny strip mall a stone’s throw from the Belmont campus. The retro sixties DIY décor is both warm and whimsical. It’s just far enough from the edge of campus to make it a pioneering project for the Jam Coffee House. One year in and things seem to be going well. Sisters Bethany and Maile Newton spend most of their time smiling behind the counter and that’s always a good sign. The ladies serve coffee roasted locally by Beck’s Farm House Coffee and Tea. Hoist a mug and find a good seat at the bar or in one of the mix and match tables and chairs. Some Louis Armstrong on the stereo and the sound of laughter from the counter mingle well.

They serve a limited selection of sandwiches for breakfast and lunch. It’s certainly enough for a meal and unlike some coffee joints, these sandwiches are lovingly created to order behind the counter. The breakfast sandwich is a hearty affair on toasted Provence sourdough bread. Egg, pesto, avocado and Dubliner cheese meld together for a warm and satisfying sandwich. It’s simple and probably better for it.

The Provence rosemary olive oil bread is the toasty foundation for the Mama Mia lunch sandwich. Chicken, bruschetta and Dubliner cheese are crowned by bacon. It’s a messy treat, full of flavor thanks to pop from ripe cherry tomatoes and a generous dose of balsamic vinegar. They serve cashews on the side, a nice twist.

Bakery items come from Lucy’s Kitchen. These include a range of muffins, scones, and cupcakes. The Break-Up Cake was perhaps a bit too far over the top: a dense fudge-like version so incredibly rich that one piece nearly killed us.

Veggie Eater: Breakfast and lunch menus seem to make a conscious choice to include a veggie item. The menus are designed daily and are tailored to what locally sourced foods are available. The Veggie Reggie allows choice of veggies, choice of cheese, and choice of bread. You can slap on avocado (big, thick slices) for an extra charge. My version included carrots, zucchini, red onions, and spinach. This is drizzled in balsamic and Dijon. I opted for flax seed for the added bonus of nuttiness. It’s a wonderful combination of textures and flavors. The next time out, we went for breakfast and I had the delightful breakfast tacos. The corn tortillas are lightly grilled, stuffed with perfectly cooked and fluffy scrambled eggs, a smattering of shredded cheese, large chunks of sliced avocado, and a homemade taco sauce, that has a bit of heat and a little bit of smokiness. It’s a wonderful way to start the morning while lounging about and reading the paper (OK, so our local Gannett cloned paper takes only five minutes to read; Jam has plenty of other reading material available to fill the void).

Meat Eater: They keep fairly long hours, allowing the place to be a breakfast, lunch and even an early dinner stop. Just check the Facebook page first for the latest hours. We like the laid-back atmosphere of Jam Coffee House. It’s much more relaxing than the big coffee houses in town. Sometimes smaller is better.

The Jam Coffee House on Urbanspoon

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Honduras Restaurant

Nashville Restaurants and Food
Honduras Restaurant
1057 Murfreesboro Road
Nashville
615-365-2522
Facebook page

Honduras restaurant is tucked off of Murfreesboro Road near East Thompson Lane. You have to be looking for the joint to find it. Fans of Vinh-Long, the long-time Vietnamese restaurant next door, will know the location well. We’ve been meaning to come here for a number of years after hearing good things. Needless to say, Honduran food is the focus and it’s done in a simple and effective manner.

The waitress rushes from table to table out front and two ladies in the kitchen can be heard patting out dough for balaedas and tortillas. The fresh and thick creations are nicely grilled and a real standout on the menu. Balaedas are Honduran street-food, basically a hearty version of a taco. The tortillas for balaedas are usually wheat flour based. They’re smeared with beans and then done up in a number of different ways. The highlight is queso duro viejo- aged cheese that has a sharp flavor reminiscent of a mild limburger. The pungent nature of the cheese might turn off some folks. We found it a welcome twist that perked up the dishes.

They start many orders with a complimentary batch of hot tortilla chips, covered with beans and that pungent aged cheese. Honduras is also known for tamales elote- corn tamales that are a little sweet and a little savory. Served with a thick crema it’s one of the better Central American appetizers in town. Sweet plantains are lightly fried and served simply: just a little oil and Honduran sour cream. Honduran chicken comes in several forms, including an herby and juicy fried chicken. Strangely a small dollop of ketchup is dotted on each wing. It is served with a big mound of tasty slaw and super thin-cut fried plantain chips for a good texture mix. Soups are popular with the largely Hispanic crowd. Shrimp soup can come coconut-based for a simple and rich broth almost Thai-like in flavor. Decent shrimp (probably frozen), carrots, yucca and corn on the cob provide the substance. The soup is laced with cilantro and the result is a flavorful and filling lunch. They serve those thick tortillas and sticky rice on the side.

Veggie Eater: There are a couple of baleadas options that are veggie friendly: the standard cheese version and another version with slices of avocados, eggs, and beans. The latter is a filling and satisfying affair for the veggie eater accompanying the carnivore. The homemade tortillas are a bit thicker than standard Mexican style tortillas, though not as thick as a Salvadoran pupusa. The queso duro viejo is crumbly, aromatic, and reminiscent of almost a sheep’s mild blue and offsets the comforting egg, cheese, and beans perfectly. This is topped with mantequilla, the Honduran version of crema, a perfect piquant and thick accessory. Not much else here to eat, but for an occasional meal, Honduras would keep the non meat eater happy.

Meat Eater: The dining room is simple and unremarkable. You may be subjected to loud Spanish soap operas, but that seems to be standard at half the Hispanic joints in town. If you’re looking to branch out from the Mexican side of cuisine, Honduras is a good bet for a satisfying Central American meal.

We paid $21 with tax and tip for one meal and a bunch of food. I paid $14 on a solo return visit.

Honduras on Urbanspoon

Friday, February 17, 2012

West End Café - First Look

Nashville Restaurants and Food
West End Café - First Look

There’s been a serious breakfast and quality sandwich shortage in the West End area for some time now. The West End Café opened three weeks ago to fill the void. It’s an upscale diner in concept and menu, with an emphasis on breakfast and lunch. The good news is that they stay open until 9 p.m. for dinner, including some small plates. The sandwiches we tried hit the spot. Hot and tender roast beef paired with brie and horseradish aioli is a simple and yet effective combination on lightly toasted and thin-cut sourdough. This isn’t a “stuff the sandwich full” type of joint. Expect carefully chosen ingredients and moderation in construction. The house made chips are big, thick and flavorful. A spring mix salad was fresh and crisp. They serve wine, beer and have bar selections as well. We spotted a number of folks doing mimosas on a recent Sunday. Breakfast is primarily the usual line-up of egg choices. Check out the web site for complete menus.

The West End Café should be a prime hang-out for hung-over college students and those of us older folks just looking for some good food. It’s a welcome addition to the neighborhood at 17th and West End. We’ll be back again soon and have a full review.

West End Café
1720 West End Avenue
Nashville
615-321-2209
www.westendcafenashville.com

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Butterbean and Santo Nino

Nashville Restaurants and Food
Two Reasons to Visit Gallatin on a Weekday

I had my first look at the new Butterbean Bakery and Bistro in Gallatin last week. It’s nestled in a stately older home a couple of blocks off the courthouse square. The concept of a vegetarian and gluten-free restaurant in Gallatin seems a bit odd, but once you visit, you realize that the overall effect is one of a warm and comforting lunch spot, with a touch of new-Southern homespun charm. The waitresses sport artistic tattoos and on closer inspection at least one is religious themed. You sit at a slightly wobbling table and examine the specials for the day, hand-written on little note cards. A cherry tomato Panini is flavorful thanks to nicely pressed gluten-free bread topped with Dubliner cheese and lovingly roasted red peppers and zucchini. It’s a good sandwich and yet perhaps outclassed by a cup of silky and rich potato- leek chowder. The broccoli pecan, golden raisin salad is not only sweet and tangy, but vegan as listed on the menu. They offer to switch any dairy options to dairy-free for vegans.

They serve small portions for the money, but the food is well-crafted and worth the expense. On the way out I sampled a bit of an excellent raspberry bar of some sort and realized that I need to sample more of the expansive display of gluten-free bakery products.

Now for the sad truth for Nashville vegetarians- right now they are only open for lunch and on weekdays. Perhaps that will change with a little nudging. It would be worth a visit to their Facebook page to show a little encouragement.

Butterbean
112 College Street
Gallatin
615-461-7442
Facebook page

If you do make the trip to Gallatin there is another stop I recommend. Santo Nino de Atocha Tortilleria is located in a strip mall at 720 Nashville Pike, on the way towards downtown. Just take the Vietnam Veteran’s exit 14, head down to Nashville Pike and take a left. It’s a couple of miles down the street on the left coming from Nashville. They make fresh corn tortillas daily. You can watch the machine at work from the window. While the tortillas are good the corn tortilla chips are even better: hearty, crunchy and with just the right amount of salt. They use canola oil to cook the chips. It’s a tiny storefront with just tortillas, chips, corn husks and some frozen tamales for sale. It would make a good two-fer with Butterbean.

Santo Nino de Atocha Tortilleria
720 Nashville Pike
Gallatin
615-206-8152