Sunday, July 15, 2012
340 Welch Road
It’s catch up time on the blog. Folks have been saying good things about Pupuseria Salvadorena for some time now. It’s been a regular stop for Lannae and that’s a good recommendation for us. Salvadorena does some big family business. A Saturday afternoon finds the place packed and a bit smoky from cooking. There is understandably a bit of a wait because customers are not just in the dining room- they’re lined up for take-out orders. Still, the food keeps coming. That’s thanks to an army of ladies in the kitchen. You can hear them laughing and patting out dough for the pupusas and thick, doughy tortillas.
Pupusa loroco is just the right amount of cheesy and great flavor from the loroco flower buds. The curtido slaw on the side is vinegary and just right. A carne asada plate has nicely seasoned beef with big slices of ripe avocado, fresh pico de gallo and quality frijoles. A little spicy verde sauce and it’s a darn good lunch. However, that carne asada is even better piled up in a messy and delicious torta sandwich. Quesadillas also do well thanks to excellent ingredients. They’re lightly grilled and packed full of chicken breast, cheese, onion, lettuce and tomato. It’s an unusual pile up of stuff for a quesadilla and yet it works.
Veggie Eater: Central American restaurants seem to have fairly limited menus in general and this translates to even few veggies options. The options here amount to the pupusa loroco y queso or the pupusa frijole y queso. Feeling crazy, I had one of each. The fancier version (loroco) is pretty much as Meat Eater already indicated-the salsa verde has a nice afterburner heat to it. The curtido is tangy and sour. The cheese itself is both crispy and gooey. All of this on a homemade pupusa equals the perfect complement of textures and flavors. The frijole y queso version is a bit more filling, but simpler in both flavor and texture. Not much else to sample here, but a treat for every once and a while.
Meat Eater: The line to pay your bill is the same as the take-out line and that can cause a real logjam. Service, however, is friendly and efficient otherwise. I paid $13 with tax and tip on one visit and we paid $20 for two on another visit. Welch is a little side street off of Nolensville Road, just north of Harding Place.